Humpback whales can be seen off the Cape Cod coast. Image credit: Manuel Balesteri/Shutterstock
Elbow Into Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Kayaking is a popular activity in Maine’s Acadia National Park. Image credit: EcoPhotography.com/Alamy Stock Photo
Chase Giants in Maine
Alfresco dining in DePasquale Square, Providence, Rhode Island. Image credit: Ian G Dagnall/Alamy Stock Photo
Be Free as a Bird in Rhode Island
Nicknamed “Vacationland,” Maine, the northernmost state on the east coast, draws in visitors with craggy coastlines, daily-catch seafood, and nature-inspired art.
Portland, a bustling coastal city on Casco Bay, features lovingly preserved 19th-century architecture (now often housing gourmet restaurants and boutiques), cobblestone streets, and maritime landmarks. One is never far from a lighthouse – there are six within 20 minutes of the city – or a just-caught lobster.
Start with breakfast at Hot Suppa, a beloved bistro on Congress Street, where Southern fare gets reinterpreted with New England ingredients. Then catch the 17-minute ferry to Peaks Island; hop on a golf cart to explore the neighborhood’s seaside trails and artist galleries, or relax with a waterfront pint. Back downtown, good food and strong drinks await at Central Provisions on Fore Street. Yes, that’s caviar on the lunch menu and foie gras parfait for dessert.
Like a mighty arm, the Cape Cod peninsula extends from southeast Massachusetts. Known for picture-postcard villages and stunning beaches, it’s also teeming with wildlife in the sea (whales, seals, and sharks) and sky (osprey, whimbrels, and Great Blue Heron, among many other birds). With so many outdoor attractions, it’s a great destination for our four-legged friends, with dogs welcome at many beaches, trails, parks, and restaurants all along the Cape.
While there’s no shortage of summer and fall tourists – abundant sunshine and crisp surf are hard to resist – discerning visitors can make the most of peak season by choosing the mid-Cape, also known as the elbow. Chatham and Harwich, two neighboring mid-Cape towns, beckon with less-crowded beaches, antique shops on historic main streets, and seafood joints that locals love.
Chatham’s Municipal Airport doubles as a gourmet destination with Hangar B Eatery. At breakfast, go for red flannel hash with beets and horseradish crème fraîche, or opt for smash-up cultural decadence with an egg-and-arancini burrito, complete with sriracha aioli. Satisfy a sweet tooth with brioche bread pudding French toast and potato buttermilk donuts.
After filling up, relaxing seaside with a good book may be next in order. With lapping waves, crisscrossing tides, and soft sands, Chatham’s Cockle Cove Beach on Nantucket Sound is perfect for young families wanting a laid-back day at the shore. For those preferring to raise their heart rate, hop on a bike, lace up your sneakers, or saddle a horse on the Cape Cod Rail Trail in Harwich. Twenty-five paved miles stretch north to Wellfleet or west to Yarmouth, passing through or by nature preserves, state parks, and waterways, including Long Pond, the largest freshwater pond on the Cape. Two local breweries are also right along the trail – the Devil’s Purse tasting room in South Dennis and the Hog Island tasting room in Orleans. Want something sweeter? Pull your bike up to the Hot Chocolate Sparrow in Orleans, known for frozen hot chocolate, hot fudge milk with espresso, and salted caramel crunch cake, among other indulgent desserts.
In the evening, follow the music to The Chatham Squire, a downtown institution since 1968, known for pub fare, live bands, pool, and karaoke. Craving classics like lobster rolls, clam chowder, or fish and chips? This is the place. While any summer night will have a lively scene, try to catch the local Dune Billy All-Stars band. Michael Gabriel’s laid-back steel pan playing creates extra-beachy vibes. Or, for dinner-and-a-movie night, head down the street to the Chatham Orpheum Theater, a non-profit community cinema showing new releases, art films, and local productions.
Mention Newport, Rhode Island, and most visitors picture dramatic seaside cliffs against elegant Gilded Age mansions (or summer cottages, as their first owners called them), a bustling harbor, and a well-preserved downtown dotted with church steeples and clapboard structures. It’s easy to spend a few days browsing the many shops, restaurants, and historic venues along Thames Street and Bellevue Avenue, the main thoroughfares, as well as the Brenton Hotel Dog Walk, a.k.a. the “Hydrant Trail,” a dog-friendly 1.4-mile loop traversing Second and Washington streets. Venture beyond downtown, however, to find unique outdoorsy activities and in-the-know bistros that offer unforgettable flavors.
At Le Bec Sucré in Middletown, bakers whip up delectable breads and pastries. Make a point to try the flaky and buttery croissants, crispy baguettes, and perfect fruit tarts before they sell out – early birds get the best selection.
Speaking of birds, more than 200 species have been spotted at the 300-acre Norman Bird Sanctuary in Middletown. Seven miles of trails are spread across farms, forests, and wetlands; several tranquil beaches also abut the nature preserve.
Grab fixings for a picnic lunch, then head to Portsmouth for a unique outdoor excursion. Using railbikes, or pedal-powered vehicles that run along (inactive) railroad tracks, Rail Explorers USA offers self-directed six-mile tours along coastal trails and groves, featuring stunning views that are inaccessible any other way. Choose from two routes: The Northern Ramble (six miles straight) meanders along the waterfront railway of Aquidneck Island, including a pass by the Newport Mansions’ Green Animals Topiary Garden, while the Southern Circuit (three miles out, three back) traverses the Aquidneck woodlands. Southbound pedalers are encouraged to stop at the midway point, Bayside Station along Narragansett Bay, for a waterfront picnic.
Happy hour calls for a glass of wine. In Middletown, the picturesque Newport Vineyards, set on more than 100 acres of farmland, serves up local vintages plus craft brews and tavern fare. Try a wine or beer flight paired with the Newport sea salt pretzels and ooey gooey roasted apple grilled cheese. Dogs are invited to join their owners on the patio and across the property.
For dinner, hop over to Saunderstown for fresh seafood and house-made pasta at Plum Pt. Bistro, owned and operated by veteran Rhode Island restaurateurs Ralph and Elisa Conte and their children, Zoe and Raphael, since 2012. Venture beyond lobster – here, diners feast on cornmeal-crusted native cod, sautéed local fluke, fisherman’s stew, and Rhody littlenecks over spaghetti, all in a hip vintage setting that’s Instagram-ready.
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Stunning Pemaquid Point Lighthouse in Maine. Image credit: Susanne Kremer/4Corners Images
Local writer Sarah Pascarella uncovers the region’s charming villages and captivating natural beauty
Allure of the Atlantic Coast
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June 2025 (Volume 28)
Main Street in Annapolis, Maryland, has many wellpreserved 18th- and 19th-century buildings. Image credit: Sean Pavone/Shutterstock
The country’s largest estuary, the Chesapeake Bay Watershed covers 64,000 square miles across the mid-Atlantic, intertwining six states and Washington, D.C. In particular, the tri-state Delmarva region (Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia) offers a glimpse of quintessential life along the water; here, locals are just as enthusiastic to fish, sail, and go crabbing as the visitors. Easton and St. Michaels, Maryland, are especially noteworthy: head to these towns to spend days out on the bay, sample local produce and seafood, and toast special occasions with the finest spirits.
Get a good sense of the area with a ride on St. Michaels Harbor Shuttle; private tours and public taxi service are available. Dogs are welcome on board and even get their own ice and water service.
Retail therapy awaits on and around Talbot Street in St. Michaels. Stop at Woodcraft Artisans for a stunning wood-carved map souvenir, showcasing how the bay branches along the surrounding states.
Farm-to-table restaurant T at The General Store in Royal Oak offers tea-inspired dishes and a menu sourced from local farmers, fisheries, creameries, breweries, and distilleries. Try the fish of the day, shrimp and grits, and the eclectic variety of teas. Order the Get up and Go! blend to boost stamina, then take a kayak or canoe out on the St. Michaels Water Trail, featuring routes designed for beginners and seasoned paddlers alike. Trails span 2 to 8 miles across coves, creeks, and rivers. For those preferring a less strenuous tour, book a ride on the historic skipjack H. M. Krentz oystering boat, originally launched in 1955 and one of only 16 skipjacks still operating. Bring your own picnic or arrange onboard cocktails and refreshments in advance.
After a day on the water, it’s time for something more refined. The Stewart, an Easton bar and lounge serving fine champagnes and Scotch varieties, also features small plates and entrees including Eastern Shore crab cake, wild diver oysters, and sushi. Splurge and order the French fries and caviar, accompanied by a glass of Dom Pérignon Rosé.
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The Atlantic Coast in summer and fall is brimming with abundance and variety. Explore that cobblestone alley with mouth-watering aromas of chowder and lobster rolls. Leash up your dog for a leisurely stroll on a nature trail, stopping to browse the farmstand’s just-gathered honey and juicy stone fruit. Go barefoot across a cliffside overlooking the glittering ocean. With long days and plentiful sunshine, friendly locals, and world-renowned artists, this region truly comes alive from May through October. Whether adhering to well-scheduled itineraries or opting for impromptu discoveries, travelers visiting the Atlantic Coast will find a vivacious spirit of fun and festivity that infuse every activity. A word before you go: the Atlantic Coast can have a boomerang pull. Make the trip once, and you’ll likely want to come back again and again, year after year. Many returning visitors become part of the fabric of summer and fall life, their arrivals as anticipated as the seasons themselves, and are welcomed back warmly as family.
About an hour north of Portland, the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay offer a bit of whimsy against a contemplative setting: tucked within the gardens’ trails are the Guardians of the Seeds, Danish artist Thomas Dambo’s giant troll sculptures crafted from recycled wood. It’s approximately three miles to see all five trolls, with plenty of gorgeous woodland, floral trails, and Back River waterfront views to admire along the way.
Bring the scenic views back home with you with a print or coffee-table book from photographer Peter Ralston, who’s been capturing the region’s landscapes and local characters since 1978. His Rockport gallery is open six days a week during peak season, or by appointment.
Finally, Maine has more than 100 craft breweries, with most using locally sourced waters, hops, barley, and oats to create truly unique flavor profiles. The Maine Brewers’ Guild’s Beer Trail has a complete listing of which participating breweries are open for tastings across the state; summer and fall visitors will likely find a festival or two showcasing the latest on tap. Travelers near Portland in late June, for example, can check out the Wavy Days Beer Festival, hosted by Mast Landing Brewing Company, to try more than 60 beers from select North American breweries.
Portland, a bustling coastal city on Casco Bay, features lovingly preserved
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